Article: IN SODA BREAD, ONE INGREDIENT MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE

Kathleen Regan knows what she wants in a perfect Irish soda bread: "Crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, not too sweet, with a healthy amount of raisins," she says. She also knows what she doesn't want: "No caraway seeds. None of the breads in my family have that."

She's not the only family member with strong opinions on the subject. A few weeks before St. Patrick's Day, she drove from Medford to an aunt's house in Springfield, where her mother, Mary Burke, and three cousins gathered for a bake-off, turning out three Irish soda breads using two recipes. It was all good fun, she says, with plenty of gossip and chatter, but the rivalry was never far from the surface.

Regan uses her ...

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