Article: CALIFORNIA WINE COUNTRY, MINUS THE CROWDS

HEALDSBURG, Calif. - The small sign for Middleton Farm is as discreet as the place itself, yet it caught our eye as we drove along a winding road in wine country. We made a U-turn and doubled back to the dirt driveway, which we rolled along slowly to avoid the roaming peacocks.

A solitary figure in front of a barn turned to look at the arriving strangers with a knowing smile. It was winter, the trees were going bare and the region's vineyards fallow, but Nancy Skall seemed none too surprised that we had happened upon her eight acres.

"We still have some garlic and broccoli and the persimmons are just about ripe," Skall said, noting the organic strawberries and pears were all gone for the ...

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