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Article: RUSTIC REFINED CHEFS ARE BRINGING THE CLAMBAKE INSIDE, TO DELICIOUS EFFECT.
- Article from:
- The Boston Globe (Boston, MA)
- Article date:
- August 13, 2006
- Author:
CopyrightCopyright 2006 The Boston Globe. Provided by ProQuest LLC. (Hide copyright information)
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The clambake was once a strictly beachside ritual, celebrating the
bounty of the sea: a heap of lobsters, fresh-dug clams, mussels, and
assorted fixings steamed over a fire in a deep sand pit and eaten
alfresco. The celebration's still there, but the dish is now more
often (and more easily) reproduced in giant pots on restaurant
stovetops. Like many simple dishes, a clambake can be prepared with
varying degrees of quality, and in some places, it has become a
second-rate tourist-trap meal.
But there are chefs who do honor to the delicious tradition. "It's
a harvest," says Joshua Hollinger, executive chef of The Coach House