Article: CRUSADING FRANCE

ALBI, France -- Compared with most French medieval towns, Albi stands out like a scarlet poppy against a green hillside.

Instead of the usual gray stone, the favored building material here is mellow-red brick, the same shape and color as that the Romans used. And Albi houses are invariably roofed not with dull slate but clay tiles of a deep, flaming red.

Under a bright southern sun, the sturdy brick houses along Albi's web of cobblestone streets glow rosily, seeming to radiate good cheer. No other French provincial town has quite the same cozy ambience.

But nowhere in this engaging place are you ever out of sight of the enormous, fortress-like Sainte Cecile Basilica. Meant to intimidate, ...

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