Article: Polar Energy Near the Circle; Just Below the Arctic Ice, Canada's Wager Bay Is Way Cool

We spotted the polar bear right away, swimming easily in the frigid water about a quarter-mile from our boat. Vaulting onto an ice floe in a welter of spray, he turned to watch us. Then he leapt, hitting the water with a glorious belly-flopper. At the next floe, he dived underneath to emerge on the other side. In a rush, he clambered onto the ice again and stood while gallons of water sluiced from his white pelt.

"Gotta go with the floe," shouted a woman in our group, delirious with joy.

She was warned. According to an old Eskimo legend, bears are enraged by puns.

Wearing parkas, gloves and knit caps on a cold July afternoon, we had set out with an Inuit guide in an aluminum launch along the ...

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