Article: CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE

Tiramisu, kugelhopf, and kourambiedes all have their devotees, but give us the desserts of our native land, especially those of childhood. Give us chocolate chip cookies like Mom served straight from the supermarket. That's America! As aficionados of the ready-to-eat chocolate chip cookie, we have high standards. Forget those faddish yuppie softies -- cookies so fudgey and floppy they fall apart in your hand.

Give us cookies with backbone -- crisp, stable, chockful of chips -- but with a sensuous slight fudginess in the center.

We found the Pepperidge Farm classic Nantucket Chocolate Chunk hefty, with abundant chocolate chunks -- but the cookies are oddly

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