Article: LETTERS TO THE TRAVEL EDITOR

Capital Cuisine

I very much enjoyed your March 12 Travel section with its culinary survey of European capitals. However, a few comments appear to be in order.

The airelle is not a mushroom but the red bilberry, vaguely reminiscent of our cranberry. It goes superbly with duck or venison, as I found out some years back at one of the finest restaurants of Troyes, in the province of Champagne. Likewise, sogliola is not bass but sole. It is prepared lusciously at Da Cesare, near the Vatican, as well as at the better restaurants at Ostia, Rome's opening to the sea.

In Rome, your reporter was right on the mark about Da Mario, truly a haven of earthy and soulful food for, relatively, a song. On the ...

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