Article: Some havens on the Vineyard

VINEYARD HAVEN -- "Is that the Black Dog?" the girl asks her mother as they wait near the ferry dock where an old Labrador retriever is cooling off with a harbor swim.

"I think he is," says the mother as the rotund old canine, wearing a red kerchief, slowly emerges from the water and shakes off unapologetically. "That's the Black Dog."

Here we are in the heart of darkness. The belly of the beast. And, paying $20 for a T-shirt with a black lab on the front. The bite here is definitely worse than the bark.

This is the other end of Martha's Vineyard, the plainer side. The story here is about how a quaint, dry (alcohol-free) village with one restaurant, some oil tanks, and an authentic wooden ...

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