Article: Poacher's paradise

EGG WHITES are a dreary substitute for the real thing. It's possible to make them taste like something, but they'll never taste much like an egg. And they won't gratify a genuine craving for eggs. You need the yolks for that. A tender yolk, particularly in a poached egg, is so beautiful it's practically a sauce in itself and much too luxurious to limit to toast. Let it spill richly over crisp pancetta, dip into a pool of caramelized onions, coat a bed of roasted potatoes, or balance bitter greens tossed with bacon. One of a poached egg's more glorious moments is in a bowl of hot chicken broth garnished with spinach and dusted generously with Parmesan cheese. The egg sinks to the ...

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