Article: I SCREAM, YOU SCREAM FOR ONLY `REAL' ICE CREAM

I have completed my summerlong research project, and I can report that everyone smiles when they leave a counter or window with ice cream cone or dish.

It is a special kind of smile. Pleasure? Yes. Delight, joy, accomplishment, achievement, anticipation, smug pride are all revealed in that smile. Happiness.

It is also a smile of confession. There is always guilt. Skinny customers and eggplant-shaped ones like me all seem to share a certain delightful shame when they turn away from the ice cream stand, cone held high.

It is also a smile of community, the kind of smile I would expect to be worn by a gang of happy-go-lucky bank robbers, money bags in hand. Ice cream cone lickers and biters ...

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