Article: A RAW DEAL - THERE IS NO NEED TO COOK PASTA SAUCES MADE WITH FRESH, LOCALLY GROWN TOMATOES AT THE HEIGHT OF THEIR FLAVOR.

BOSTON UNCOMMON / COOKING

Sometimes, it's best to leave well enough alone, and in my book, ripe local tomatoes - the kind we get for just a few weeks in August and September in New England - are well enough. I eat them like a madman, but I almost never cook them. Raw tomatoes cut into rough chunks to mix with cheese, herbs, and olive oil as a dressing for pasta is a standby August dinner that keeps the tomatoes tasting pure and fresh and the stove time down to the minimum. To keep the dish from becoming watery, seed the tomatoes. Remove the core, cut the fruit in half along its equator, grasp one half in the palm of your hand, and give it a gentle squeeze and shake. The seeds and jelly will ...

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