Article: Along the beautiful backstreets of subdued and quaint San Marino

SAN MARINO: Before we've even entered the Republic of San Marino, the signs are there. The car begins a battle with the gradient, the car stereo crackles as it wails ballads, and the discount shopping warehouses appear in increasing numbers.

I've been warned about San Marino's tacky side by the guidebooks, which advise against shopping there, claim the food is not the European state's strong point, and recommend a hotel only in the eventuality that you miss the last bus out after a day trip.

After two hours of driving south from the Bologna airport, playing high-speed dodgems with swerving lorries, we're happy relieved, even to spot the giant lump that is Mount Titano looming out of the ...

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