Article: an Englishwoman abroad Fear and friendship in the streets of Havana

The buildings are cracked and faded, their ancient bricks softened by time and humid air. The paint has long since peeled; the plaster has bubbled and crumbled in places. The stone walls are mottled with a creamy, rose-red lichen.

I walk through the dusty streets of colonial-era Havana, admiring the beauty of 16th-century buildings which stand close to ruin in a city that pulses with modern life. Washing hangs from the wrought- iron balconies, white sheets billowing in the hot breeze. Old women sit in rocking chairs in open doorways, televisions murmuring from dark, damp interiors. I amble down a quiet street, keeping to shadows.

I hear the man calling behind me before I see him.

"Amiga," ...

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