Article: THE MYSTICAL MOUNTAIN KINGDOM OF BHUTAN; In the Heart of the Himalayas, Secrets of the Past Survive

The "black hat" dancers swept into the medieval courtyard of the Paro, Bhutan, fortress in a kaleidoscope of swirling silks and exotic masks, dancing the sacred steps passed down by generations and hidden from the outside world for centuries.

Hundreds of festively clad Bhutanese villagers and maroon-robed monks jammed the courtyard and packed the balconies of the massive stone edifice, entranced by the dance troupes, each more exotic than the last. Four stories above the rainbow of colors and cacophony of drums, gongs and horns, we watched the spectacle of the Paro Festival from a monk's stark room, sipping yak butter tea and eating spiced yellow rice.

The setting provided a rare window ...

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