Article: A TASTE OF the blues; There's more to veined fromage than blue cheese dressing.

How do you know if your cheese is depressed?

Because it's blue cheese.

OK, bad joke.

Good cheese.

Blue, or veined, cheese is a generic term for varieties such as Saga, Gorgonzola, Stilton, Roquefort, Danish and Maytag. All have colorful, blue-green veins running through a milky white base.

A favorite in Europe -- carrying some well-earned snob appeal -- blue cheese is gaining followers in the gastronomic New World as Americans become more adventurous in their food choices.

Until recently, most Americans didn't even realize there was more than one type of blue, even though there are more than 100 varieties. (No wonder the poor cheese is depressed!)

S. Clyde Weaver, East Petersburg, a ...

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