Article: Waiting Game

RIVER CLUB - 3223 K St. NW. 202-333-8118. Open: for dinner Monday through Thursday 6 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6 to midnight. Closed Sunday. All major credit cards. Reservations suggested. Separate non-smoking section. Prices: appetizers $7 to $9.25, entrees $12.75 to $22. Full dinner with wine, tax and tip about $50 to $60 per person.

THE EMPTY NEST SYNDROME IS not limited to parents. Restaurants too sometimes find their chefs developing, maturing and then leaving to make their own way in the world. So it has been with the River Club.

Chef Jeff Tunks was an unknown when the River Club opened 4 1/2 years ago, but he built a solid reputation with his inventive but sure-handed ...

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