Article: In Black & White

NEW DELHI, India, Nov 18 -- One measure of how much India has changed - or, if you like, the new middle class prosperity - is our attitude to truffles. When I first wrote about them in this column, most people were vaguely intrigued and wondered if they had anything to do with a certain kind of chocolate.

Later, when I confessed to being madly in love with the taste and smell of the white truffle, attitudes began to alter. My guess is that the problems began when I talked about the exorbitant expense of all truffles. This provoked two sets of reactions. There was the predictable "Who is interested in all this snobby food?" kind of whining; and there was a more measured response about ...

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