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march of the tourists

Polar Earth is thawing. Does it matter if the visiting hordes don't understand?

If not for the wind, it would be another hot day in Antarctica. But the 20 knots blasting around the shoulders of Penguin Island are stripping us of sweat and what feels like our clothes. I'm shivering hard, and working hard to keep up with Heather Lynch, 5 feet 4 inches of science dynamo, robin's-egg-blue rubber boots pistoning through knee-deep snow with manic determination. She turns 30 this July and is training for a 19-mile wilderness run in Vermont billed as the hardest for its distance anywhere.

We're in the Antarctic Peninsula, that Sistine Chapel of the geologic world, with its godlike finger of ...

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