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Summer of Tam

Coagulated milk shouldn't taste this good...

Awhile back I was at a big picnic at Hog Island Oyster Company in Marshall. The grill was going and the table was laden with all manner bf gourmet fare. There were six kinds of oysters, barbecued as well as fresh on the half shell, grilled chicken with a smashing sauce, potato salad, fruit salad, green salad, olives and all kinds of desserts. Despite all this abundance, most of the group was clustered around one corner of the table, busily working their way through a small round of cheese and a baguette-ignoring all the other food on the table. When I went over to investigate, I discovered they were noshing on Mt. Tam, the signature cheese of ...

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