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SUMMER SALADS

Dog days mean salad days at my house - air-conditioning, swimming and salads. That's how August in New Orleans should play out. Early residents of this steamy city, with no cold air or pools to cool off with, must have enjoyed their salads.

"The Creoles have always been famous for the excellent salads which grace their tables," says the 1901 Tlie Picayune's Creole Cookbook.

It also quotes the old Spanish proverb: "To make a perfect salad, there should be a miser for vinegar, a spendthrift for oil, a wise man for salt and a madcap to stir all these ingredients, and mix them well together."

At the turn of the century and for decades in the best of restaurants, French dressing reigned supreme. ...

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