Article: BREAD ALONE

Take a peek into the restaurant tradition of bread service.

In Saudi Arabia, the word for bread is "Aaysh," which simply means 'life.' The staff of life is the stuff of life. It's the other white meat. In much of the world, bread is what's for dinner.

With bread on the brain, I find a dated eGullet.com bread-service thread, wherein members mock the pretense of bread service in fine dining. They refer to it as a "rigmarole" of pretentious questionnaires and underhandedly mention a fictitious entity known as the "bread sommelier." Members tell of the famed butter trolley at Thierry Marx's Michelin-starred French restaurant, where servers perform elaborate table-side butter service that ...

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