Article: Great Blacks in Wax Museum

BALTIMORE -- The arrow on the lamppost pointed to the right and the sign said GREAT BLACKS IN WAX.

It was a grim and accurate description, a community embalmed. On both sides of Baltimore's Broadway, as I drove uptown from the sparkling, tourist-soaked Inner Harbor, were ranks of century-old row houses, more than half of them clapboarded, vandalized, and vacant. Once, they had been the palaces of honest, striving families, but now, stencilled on each doorway were these heartbreaking words:

NO TRESPASSING

PRIVATE PROPERTY

ASSISTANCE FOR TRAPPED ANIMALS CALL 311

Around one corner, a school had been abandoned, the lifted voices of its students long silenced, its ground floor windows plugged ...

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