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Article: Restaurant as theatre: Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons
- Article from:
- The Spectator
- Article date:
- May 8, 1999
- Author:
CopyrightCopyright Spectator May 8, 1999. Provided by ProQuest LLC. (Hide copyright information)
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MY MOTHER sounded bewildered. `This is not a stag night,' she said. `It's our ruby wedding anniversary.' But the receptionist at Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons was firm. `We don't like rowdy groups. And certainly not children,' he said. `The children are all in their thirties and very well behaved,' my mother explained. `We can give you two tables of five, but not next to each other,' the man said grudgingly. `No speeches or cakes, you must order from the set menu and arrive by midday for lunch.'
My mother rang me, distraught. She had set her heart on going to the Quat' Saisons which sounds like a pizza topping but is in fact a shrine to the gastronomic arts. `Why are these restaurants so ...