Article: Sailing the Seas of Cheese; Early summer goat cheese is divine.

I'm fascinated by cheese. How can the secretions of bovine and ungulate mammary glands transform into so many textures, flavors, and colors? Standing in the cheese section of the grocery store can be an overwhelming experience, and I wonder helplessly where to begin.

The store's cheese purchaser had the answer. "Now is the best time of the year for fresh goat cheese," he said, "because spring goat milk has the highest content of butterfat, protein and sugar."

He referred me (and my barrage of questions) to the Idaho cheese maker who gave him this information: Chuck Evans of Rollingstone Chèvre of Parma, Idaho. Rollingstone cheeses, made from the milk of their herd of purebred Saanen goats, ...

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