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French bread--an endangered species

There I stood in the bakery section of the supermarket, gently fondling a wrapped loaf of bread. She's right, I thought. It's soft. This isn't real French bread.

"She" is Maureen Detweiler, a native New Orleanian with such a passion for the preservation of endangered New Orleans foods that she is the only person I am aware of who knows how to fix a Roffigniac, a drink somewhat akin to an old-fashioned. It was once served at Maylie's, a defunct Creole restaurant that named its house-specialty cocktail after a turn-of-the-century mayor.

One of Detweiler's causes as of late has been to save New Orleans-style French bread, which she sees as being endangered by imitations. Some supermarkets that ...

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