Article: RESTAURANTS; Say 'Cheese' And Try Not to Smile - New York Times

Article from:
The New York Times
Article date:
May 30, 2001
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ARTISANAL is a brasserie with a lot of cheese. That doesn't sound especially enticing. So let me put it another way. Artisanal is a big, very good-looking brasserie with more varieties of cheese than most human beings will encounter in a lifetime. Its cheese menu amounts almost to a dare: do you love cheese enough, and do you have the patience, to work your way through nearly 200 cheeses, from cabecou de Rocamadour to the unpronounceable Garrotxa to Sardinia's pride, callu de cabreddu (described on the menu as ''challenging, soft, mouth-numbing'')? The idea for a cheese-crazy restaurant can be traced to Picholine, where Max McCalman built a cult following with his highly ambitious cheese ...

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